North America. Shipping Options. Free International Shipping. Local Pickup. Free Local Pickup. Show only. Free Returns. Returns Accepted. Authorized Seller. Completed Items. Sold Items. Authenticity Guarantee. To make things easier you can use a common C-Clamp type valve spring compressor to compress the spring upward. This leaves you with two hands to "encourage" the valve lock out. You will also be saved the fatigue of holding the spring compressed with the pickle fork type tool as your other hand tries to get the valve lock out.
The next steps are where things can get difficult. The idea is to force the valve guide down to allow the valve guide retainer horseshoe clip to be pulled out.
The valve guides have a small groove machined into their lower end to allow the pickle bar tool's small forked end to engage it and pull the guide downward.
You only need it to move down a slight amount This clip slips over another groove higher up on the valve guide and actually rests in a slight recess near the "roof" of the valve galley.
Sometimes, despite all your best efforts to pull the guide down with the pickle bar tool, it won't move at all, or not enough to let the horseshoe clip come out. This is common on engines that have had water leak into the block or had a crack in a water jacket.
Rust will hold the valve guides almost like they were welded in there. There is an old mechanics tool not shown here that has a bend in it and fits around the head of the valve. The end of it rests on the top of the valve guide.
You hit this tool with a hammer and it drives the guide downward, freeing up the horseshoe clip for removal. This is only useful, of course, if you can get the valve to move up enough to fit the tool under and around the valve head. Another way is to use a screw type guide remover see picture on following pages that jacks the guide up from the valve galley. Unless the engine is to be totally rebuilt and the block cleaned, you may not want bits and shavings of metal to drop into the valve galley.
So, it is usually recommended that you remove the assembly taking it out the top of the block before further disassembly can be done. Unfortunately, most of these old flathead V8's were run years ago with non-detergent oils and heat and other corrosion tended to make the valve guides stick into the guide bores.
Since you don't know how much wear has occurred in the valve guides, it's generally a good idea to replace them, as well as the valves and all the related hardware. The valve guides on these and the early style engines can still be difficult to remove.
Old, dirty engine oil has often varnished and baked the valve guide into the bore and they become stuck. Soaking all the valve parts in advance with a penetrant will often help with the disassembly.
Frequently used is diesel fuel, brake fluid, automatic transmission fluid, or other fluids that will penetrate into the tight clearances. You might even want to put your own mark on the block before handing it over or shipping it out of town. I heard one story of a guy shipping a complete, brand-new rotating assembly to an engine builder.
When the engine came back, however, it soon seized. Tearing it down revealed that the builder had switched out the good internals for a set of not-so-good originals.
It pays to be aware of such possibilities. You can learn a lot about a shop by checking the Internet, where people are quick to air their grievances. You can also ask fellow enthusiasts about their experiences. Caveat emptor let the buyer beware is the phrase to keep in mind. These words hold much mystique, and summon images of a black art. However, they mean nothing more than making sure that parts are balanced and that the engine is assembled to certain specifications and tolerances recommended by the manufacturer for optimum performance for the desired application, such as street use, racing, or touring.
Most people building hot rod engines use components from a variety of sources. Nevertheless, you should still follow specs for main bearing clearances, ring gap clearances, cam timing, head port and chamber volumes, torque for bolts, and so on. Factory specs are parameters that suffice for mass-production engines taking into account time, labor, materials, and so on.
They meet the driving needs of the general public with a broad range of driving styles. A blueprinted engine meets and exceeds those factory parameters. Theoretically, there is no tolerance for a blueprinted engine.
If you build two engines to factory specs, there will always be variances between rod and main bearing clearances, variances in piston clearances, deck height differences, valve-spring pressure differences, and intake and exhaust port and chamber volume differences. If you blueprint an engine for racing at Bonneville, for example, there should be no variances. It should be built to a specific race spec. Properly blueprinting an engine takes many hours, a lot of patience, and a lot of skill.
To achieve a properly running, reliable engine, you need to follow procedures and not just throw it all together. Balancing is also worth worrying about, because a well-balanced engine is like a well-balanced checkbook: Keep it on the good side and life will be good. Theoretically, to do it correctly you should preass emble the engine before balancing the components, so that any subsequent machine process or task does not affect the balancing act.
The order of the day is: pre-assemble, machine if necessary, and balance. If you are running a mixture of aftermarket components crank, rods, pistons, and so on, all from different suppliers , it is essential to balance the parts.
Of course, you can avoid this work if you buy a rotating assembly from one manufacturer. Even if you do, it is still worth checking the parts for quality.
I was a crank grinder in my youth, and there were days when I ground good cranks and days when I was in a hurry and just wanted to get it done. Those grinds were within tolerance but were not my best work. Weight matching and dynamic balancing are the two steps to balancing an engine. To weight match, you weigh the pistons and the rods individually on a balancing scale to determine the lightest of each.
Then, remove a little metal from each, until all of the pistons weigh the same as the lightest piston and all of the rods weigh the same as the lightest rod. Parts are usually measured within. A balancing fulcrum is also used to determine how heavy a rod is at either end. If a rod is a little heavier on the big end the main bearing end , a little weight is removed from that end to balance the rod. Dynamic balancing is the process of balancing the rotating assembly, including crank, rods, and pistons.
Although the crank itself is put in the balancer, bob weights are installed to replicate the rod and piston assemblies. Be sure to record all of the weights for the rods, pistons, and associated components; they will be needed later when you balance the crank. Almost no factory production engine comes precision balanced. Does balancing make any difference? The answer is yes. It produces efficient power by eliminating power-robbing vibration and imbalance.
Although the rods produced by companies such as Scat are extremely well balanced, Mike likes to double-check them because balancing flathead internals is important to a smooth-running engine.
Ford service bulletins give an acceptable weight of to grams; with a little care, all of the rods can weight exactly the same. Assuming that your desire is a smooth-running, long-lasting engine, then taking your time and being careful will be rewarded.
Precisely honing both rods is paramount. You can balance connecting rods at home, and with a little care, you can match them exactly.
You will enjoy a feeling of satisfaction for a job well done. Each rod cap is put in this Sunnen rod and cap grinder, in which the mating surfaces are ground flat. You can clearly see the freshly ground rod cap faces. Obviously, because the surfaces have been ground, when the two rod halves are assembled, the hole will be out of round.
Next, the assembled rod is set in this Sunnen AN dial bore gauge, which measures the size of the big end. The gauge indicates how much the hole needs to be bored to return it to exact size and roundness. As two rods sit side by side on the crank journal, the rod pairs are honed together. A fixture on the ohaus Adventurer-Pro scale allows Mike to weigh the big end of each rod. The rod is balanced at the small end while the big end is weighed.
The Scat box says that the average weight of the big end is grams. The Scat rods weigh 40 grams less than stock Ford rods. A couple of rods were at the far end of tolerance, so they were lightly ground on the ridge of the rod cap. After all the big ends were matched, each rod was weighed individually to make sure they all weighed the same.
Matching them exactly is a bit of a balancing act, but care and patience will get you there. Material was removed from the crown of the small end of any rods that needed it. If you are doing this at home, measure twice and grind once. As with the rods, most modern pistons are well balanced, but Mike likes to be doubly sure.
The process of balancing the pistons is much the same as balancing the rods. The pistons, in this case from Egge Machine, were weighed individually. They came in at approximately Cast-alloy Ford pistons typically weighed anywhere from
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